Garment Sewing for Beginners Pattern options
CHOOSING YOUR PATTERN
Below you’ll find a list of vetted patterns that are for absolute beginners. If you don’t find what you like, you can run another pattern by me for approval ahead of time. We want to keep your total pattern pieces to about 3-4 pieces max. There are so many steps that you may not know about that take time, so I’ve chosen these patterns so that you can complete all the steps from start to a completed finished garment that fits. Please trust me that I have your best interest at heart, and this will prepare you to take on more and more complex patterns with confidence.
The models and prints on the pattern cover can really turn you off, so try to just look at the black & white line drawings of the pattern. It will give you a clearer view of the details, so you can visualize yourself and a fab fabric choice instead.
I’m having you choose from the “big five” commercial pattern companies, because they have the most standard pattern layout, lingo, and consistent finished garment measurements. Once you have done a commercial pattern, you can move on to the “indies”.
MEASURE BUST, WAIST AND HIP FIRST!!
Your Pattern Size is totally different from your off-the-rack size. Your pattern size will be at least two sizes above your body measurements in most cases. You must measure yourself at the bust, waist and hip before you buy your pattern to be sure that it will work for your body measurements. Here’s how: https://www.simplicity.com/globalassets/catalogs/simplicity/complete-measurement-guide/simplicity-complete-measurement-guide.pdf
Pattern envelopes don’t always contain ALL the sizes, they often split them up in groups. Check the front of the pattern envelope to make sure your size is included in that envelope. For tops and dresses, buy the pattern size that fits you closest on the bust chart. The waist and hip are easier to alter. For skirts and pants, buy the pattern size that fits you closest at the waist.
Uh-oh! Do your measurements fall beyond the pattern sizes included on the size chart? It is ideal if all your measurements fall within the pattern size chart. The easiest thing to do is to go with another pattern that does, but we can make pattern adjustments up to 3” above/below the largest/smallest pattern size if needed, If you’re making your project for someone else, be sure to have their exact measurements with you. You’ll be lost in class without them.
BODY “TYPES”
You probably know at this point in your life what styles you like best, but if you’re unsure, I’m going to give you some categories below: X, O, V, A. I hate to place labels like this because likely you are a mix of these proportions, but this just gives us a place to start. These are NOT hard and fast rules--these are suggestions based on many years of experience dressing all kinds of bodies and gauging the positive reaction of the wearer. The beauty of sewing for yourself is you get to customize, break all the “rules”, and I’m 100% here for it! For beginners, knowing what to look for might make your pattern selection feel less overwhelming. I’ve put an X, O, V or A next to the pattern descriptions.
X. Hourglass: Full bust, narrower waist, and full booty. You want to choose patterns that have some waist definition and/or darts at the bust for shaping. Square cut shapes are often too boxy and there will be gaps at the armholes for a busty gal. Go for a V-neck or scoop neckline. Fit-and-flare silhouettes and princess seams can be flattering for a curvy figure.
O. Even: Your hips and bust are in equal or smaller proportion to your belly. Tunics, and shift dresses are nice, as are A-line silhouettes. Styles with wider shoulders and boatneck or square necklines help give upper body visual balance with the midsection. If you’re above a B-cup, styles with bust darts and asymmetrical lines will be a nice choice for the plus size gal.
V. V-shaped: broad shoulders and/or full bust with narrow hips. Blouson, fit and flare, A-line, and fuller skirts give nice balanced visual proportion with the bust and hip. If you’re above a B-cup, styles with bust darts for shaping are ideal.
A Bootylicious: Your booty is your widest measurement in proportion to your waist and bust. You can follow the same suggestions as Hourglass, but if you have a smaller bust, you can balance your top half with a blousy silhouette, jewel or ruffled necklines, and wide kimono-style sleeves.
Traditionally “masculine“ or “men’s” beginner-level patterns are scarce. I’ve indicated “men’s” patterns in yellow. Please know that all gender identities, orientations, ages, body types and cultures are embraced here.
Remember as you look through these pattern options that YOUR ready-to-wear size is generally two sizes LARGER than your pattern size.
DRESSES
Pullover Linen Tunic or Dress with sleeve option. Pattern sizes 10-28. ALL body shapes, all cup sizes.
Pullover Plus Size Woven Fabric Tank Dress with cap sleeve option. Plus pattern sizes 18-34.
Caftan/Tunic with design options. Pattern sizes XXS-XXL. ALL body shapes and sizes.
Asymmetrical Pullover Swingy Tank Dress with side seam pockets. Pattern Sizes 4-26. All body shapes and sizes.
Plus Size Pullover Tunic or Dress with side seam pockets. Views B or C ONLY. Pattern sizes 18-24. ALL body shapes over an off-the-rack size 14/16.
Plus Size Pullover Dress with an elastic empire waist, v-neck and relaxed sleeves. Pattern Sizes 1X-4X. ALL body shapes over an off-the-rack size 14/16.
Pullover Dress with handkerchief hem and color blocking option. Pattern Sizes 4-26. A, V and O with an A, B or C cup.
Batwing Shift Dress with center back zipper. Pattern sizes 8-18. Best for A-B cup, O, V shapes
Shift Dress with back zipper and sleeve variations 10-22. O, V, A with an A or B cup.
A-line Dress with bust darts, pullover or button/loop neck closure, pockets OR sleeve, waist ties option. Pattern sizes 8-20. ALL body shapes.
A-line Swingy Tank Dress with bust darts, and back zipper. Pattern sizes 10-22. ALL body shapes up to a C cup
Shift Dress with bust and back darts, cap sleeve, and back zipper. Pattern sizes 10-22. A, V and O with an A, B or C cup.
Pullover Sleeveless Shift Dress, Tunic, Shell Top or Pants with front pockets. Pattern sizes 10-22. A, V and O with an A, B or C cup.
TOPS/KIMONO/ROBES WOVEN
Cardigan, Top, tunic and pull-on pants. Pattern Sizes 6-24. V and O with an A-C cup.
Shell Top, Tunic, Dress or Pants (B, C, or D only). Pattern sizes 10-28 (no bust darts). Tops A, V and O with an A-C cup.
Tunics, Neckline and Sleeve variations, and Elastic Waist Pants or Skirts. Pattern Sizes 10-28 (has bust darts). All body shapes
Swingy Tunic with pocket/sleeve options. Pattern Sizes 4-26. ALL body shapes
Simple Tunic or Waist Length Top and Elastic Waist Pants with Pockets. Pattern Sizes 8-18 (no bust darts). Tops A, V and O with an A-C cup.
Boat Neck Shell Top, Kimono-style Jacket, Skirt with Darts and Side Zip, or Pants with Darts and Side Zip. Pattern Sizes 10-22 (has bust darts). Tops A, V. and O with an A-C cup.
Semi-fitted Blouse with Sleeves (A, B, C only). Pattern Sizes 8-24. Has multiple cup sizes included in the pattern
Loose-fitting Tunic Top with Contrast Cuff. Pattern Sizes S-XL only (no bust darts). ALL body shapes up to a C cup
Men’s Robe, Nightshirt, Pajama Pants/Shorts. Pattern Chest Sizes 34-56. All body shapes
Unisex Tunic, Elastic waist pants. Pattern Sizes S-3X. All body shapes
Unisex Daishiki Tunic, Caftan, Elastic Waist Pants. Pattern Sizes S-3X. All body shapes
Raglan Sleeve “Men’s” Tees with V or Crew Neck Pattern Chest Sizes 30-48. All body shapes
Plus Friendly Top with Multi Cup Sizes. Length and Sleeve Variations (all but view C). Pattern Sizes 8-24 (has bust darts). All body shapes
PANTS AND SKIRTS
Amazing Fit Six-Gored Skirt with Custom Sizing. Pattern Sizes 10-28. All body shapes
Straight/Pencil Skirt or Pants with Darts and Zipper. Pattern Sizes 10-22
Boat Neck Shell Top, Kimono-style Jacket, Skirt with Darts and Side Zip, or Pants with Darts and Side Zip. Pattern Sizes 10-22
A-Line Skirts with Darts, Waistband and Zipper Pattern Sizes 10-22
Flared Skirts with Darts and Side Zipper Pattern Sizes 6-18
Pencil or A-Line Skirts with Darts and Zipper Pattern Sizes XS-XXL
Men’s Jogging Pants/Shorts Pattern Waist Sizes 36-46. All body shapes
Flat-Front, Elastic Back Pants with Front Pockets. Pattern Sizes 10-22
Here’s your REQUIRED PRE-CLASS PREP CHECKLIST!
• Read the pattern selection tips above.
• Take your measurements. Bust, Waist and Hip.
• Pick and purchase a pattern from the vetted list that includes your size/s well in advance of class.
• Email me the pattern you have chosen, and any questions you may have. leslie@elbeestitchlab.biz
• You must cut your pattern pieces out before class. On the first page of your pattern instructions there will be a list of the pattern pieces needed for your “View”. DO NOT cut out any specific size, you’re simply rough-cutting the individual pattern pieces away from each other on the giant pattern tissue sheet. That way we’ll be able to hit the ground running in class!
Tip: instead of jamming everything back into the pattern envelope, pop everything into a large Ziploc bag.
CLASS I MATERIALS
• Your pattern envelope, pieces and instructions. NOTE: Don’t worry if you don’t have all these things below. I have plenty to share.
• Paper scissors
• Scotch Tape
• 2” X 18” clear ruler
• Three colors of Paper Mate Flair regular point felt tip pens. (not the hard, extra-fine tip)
• Hip Curve Ruler, French Curve and/or Vary Form Ruler (if you have them)
CLASS 2 MATERIALS
• All your pattern pieces and instructions
• Fabric—pre-washed and ironed flat. (polyester fabrics need not be washed ahead of time)
Tip: laundry care is on the end of the bolt at the fabric store. To avoid having to do lots of ironing, safety pin the selvedges together about every 10” or so. This will keep the fabric from twisting and wrinkling badly. Tumble dry with the safety pins still in, but pull it out just before it dries completely. Immediately smooth it out flat on your bed or a table to finish drying. Fold/roll in half, and again along the selvedge edge until it fits on a skirt clip hanger. Hang it in your car this way and bring it to class!
• Interfacing if pattern calls for it—choose one that’s a lighter weight than your fabric
• Thread—I like Coats & Clark all-purpose XP 100% polyester thread. It’s strong and smooth.
• Notions--Zipper, bias tape, or hook/eye, etc. if your pattern calls for it
• Straight pins & pincushion
• Nice sharp fabric scissors.
• Your sewing machine (unless you rented one of mine) Don’t forget that foot pedal and power cord!
CLASSES 3 & 4 MATERIALS
• All the same supplies as Class 2 plus your fabric scraps.
• All your pattern pieces and instructions. Don’t forget! ;)
For ALL CLASSES
IMPORTANT: We will be doing fittings throughout all our classes. I don’t have a dressing room, so you’ll want to wear close-fitting clothing like leggings/tights/bike shorts, and a tight tank/leotard/cami.
Also Bring: A water bottle/cup with a lid. I have cold water and hot tea available in the studio. Bring a snack to keep from getting that low blood sugar zombie brain! There won’t be time or space to have an entire meal.
Just a lil' ol' reminder about my cancelation policy...
CANCELATION POLICY
Cancelations must be made a full 72 hours prior to your appointed class start time, so that I can try to re-fill your spot. If you break the cancelation agreement, you will forfeit your prepaid fee. If you cancel within the 72-hour window, your fee will transfer to your rescheduled class. There are no refunds, no exceptions.
There are no make-up classes. Students who miss the first class of a multi-class series may not continue the classes without scheduling a private lesson to get caught up. Private Lessons are $40/hr., pending availability.