Know Your Knits 201: Tees, Tunics & Dresses
Know Your Knits 201 Class Materials List
• Your pattern and fabric pieces: pre-washed**, pre-cut and marked before class. Bring all scraps. (**wash/dry tips follow below).
• One spool coordinating Eloflex thread
• Sewing machine and foot pedal/power cord (or rent one of mine)
• Ballpoint machine needles sizes for the weight of your fabric: lite to med 80/11, heavy 90/14
• Ballpoint twin needle size 80/11 or 90/14
• Straight stitch foot that fits your machine
• Your threaded serger, if you wish
• Sharp scissors and thread snips
PDF Download vs. Paper Pattern Options
You’ll be coming to class with your pattern and fabric pieces cut and marked. If you’d like table space, sizing/pattern alteration advice, and help cutting your pieces, you can sign up for studio time prior to class at $20/hr. I’m SEW happy to help you! I’d reserve 1 hour for space and advice, and 1.5 hours if you’d also like help with pattern alteration/grading up for a custom fit.
If you’re printing a PDF version on your home printer, you’ll need to tape all your pattern pages together into the full pattern, and then cut the individual pattern pieces away from each other as described above.
Some of these patterns come in just a PDF print-at-home download, and some also offer a paper pattern version.
Be honest with yourself about your time. Do you have the free time to print out multiple pages on your printer and tape them all together before class? If you don’t, or if you’re nervous about printing and assembling your own pattern before class, opt for a mailed pre-printed paper pattern. If you do have time, each pattern company will provide a tutorial if you’ve never printed and assembled a PDF pattern before.
It is sometimes possible to have a PDF pattern printed at a print shop, but often student run into shops that refuse to print due to copyright issues, and it can be an expensive hassle.
Preferred Tees & Tee Dresses Patterns
These patterns are vetted and have excellent reviews. If you have another pattern you’d like to try, please just email it to me for approval ahead of class time.
Pattern sizes are not the same as off-the-rack sizes. Remember to go by your bust measurement, NOT your off-the rack garment size. Novice-friendly patterns are indicated in bold.
** The buxom, curvy and plus-sized-friendly pattern options are marked with a double asterisk **.
I’ve also included reviews from Pattern Review.com, which I always find helpful in selecting the right pattern for me. You can subscribe and see even more reviews. A basic subscription to patternreview.com, but a full access membership is inexpensive and worthwhile.
Leisl & Co Metro Basic Tee— PDF Download Only (Women) - Pattern Sizes 0-18 only
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl?pid=65568
Leisl & Co Metro Basic Tee— PDF Download Only (Men) - Pattern Sizes up to a 49” chest
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl?pid=65569
Simplicity 8613 Mimi G Men’s Raglan Tees - Pattern Sizes up to a 48” chest
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl
**Seamwork Rio Tee fitted with wide scoop neck—PDF Download Only - Full Size Range 0-26
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/122727
**Seamwork Jane Crew Neck Relaxed Fit Tee—PDF Download Only - Full Size Range 0-26
Reviews: http://whatsinatreehouse.blogspot.com/2018/02/jane-t-shirt.html
**Pamela’s Patterns Perfect T-Shirt Made for a curvy/mature figure—Paper and PDF options - Pattern Sizes XS – XL only
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl?pid=33560
**Cashmerette Concord Tee Plus and Multi-Cup sizes-- Paper and PDF options - Pattern sizes 12-28, C thru H Cups. (Choose the un-tabbed sleeve options.)
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl
Grainline Studio Lark Tee with 4 neckline variations— Paper and PDF options - Pattern Sizes 0-18 only
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl?pid=75044
Closet Case Ebony Swingy Cropped Tee, Tunic or Dress with Neckline & sleeve variations—Paper Pattern. PDF Download. Pattern Sizes 0-20
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl?pid=83924
Tilly & the Buttons Coco Tee/Dress Boat Neck, opt patch pockets—PDF Download. Paper Pattern. Pattern Sizes 2-20
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl?pid=64989
Hey June Union Street Tee with many neckline options—PDF Download only - Pattern Sizes XXS to XXXL
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl?pid=68535
Alina Design Co Panama Tee, Dress or Maxi—PDF Download Only - Pattern Sizes 0-18 only
Reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl
Knit Fabric Selection Tips and Sources
• Check your pattern for the required yardages. You’ll want to allow extra yardage for shrinkage and any lengthening or widening you might do to your pattern.
• Here is an excellent guide to choosing knit fabrics: https://www.itsalwaysautumn.com/different-types-knit-fabric-explained-fabric-giveaway.html
• Be sure that your choice has the amount of stretch and print orientation required for your pattern. Here’s a helpful guide: https://www.fabric.com/blog/fabric-101-determining-stretch-direction-stretch-percentage/
• Prewash and dry your fabric the way you want to be able to wash/dry it long term. 100% poly doesn’t need to be pre-washed.
• Some patterns may require ribbing for the neckline. Locally, rib knit trim is hard to come by, but a “ribbed knit” fabric can sometimes be found at Joann.
Knit Fabrics and Ribbing Online Sources:
Locally, our best knit fabric selection is going to be dang ol’ Joann.
Online, you have way more options. Etsy can be a great resource for ribbing, but it comes from China and Korea, so it takes several weeks to arrive.
Marcy Tilton $$$
Kendor Textiles—this company has SUPERB knits with matching ribbing, but it is wholesale. BUT the yardage minimums are low at 5yds per cut.
**Tips for washing/drying your knit fabric.
• Carefully unroll/unfold the yardage you bought, on a big flat surface/bed. It should have been cut “hot dog fold” with a selvedge edge on top and a fold at the other parallel side.
• Safety pin your selvedges together, about 10” apart, making sure the fabric stays “on grain” If you hold up the fabric with selvedges together, there should be no torque at the folded edge. Safety pinning the selvedges together will help keep the fabric from twisting off grain in the wash and dryer.
• After pinning selvedges, wash your fabric on cold.
• If you normally hang dry your fabric, you can use clip hangers along the selvedge to hang dry on grain. Four layers is fine. The thing you want to avoid is hanging your knit fabric on something like a drying rack that will leave a dent in the yardage. It will be heavy, so try to keep it as supported and flat as possible.
• If you tumble dry low, take it out of the dryer with safety pins still on, and spread it out over your bed to cool off. Dryer sheets/fabric softener is helpful to keep it smooth. Throw in some other garments to pad out the dryer load. Solo fabric will flop and fold over itself and cause wrinkling/fold marks
• Bring fabric to class on a clip hanger, fabric hanging from the selvedges.
Believe me, this extra effort will make it SEW much easier to pin and cut your pattern pieces!