INTERMEDIATE PATTERN FITTING
CLASS MATERIALS LIST
Please read through these very important class materials details for class success! You’ll be SEW glad you did. :)
CHOOSING YOUR PATTERN
Please shoot me an email to run your pattern choice by me for approval ahead of time. We want to keep your total pattern pieces to about 3-5 pieces MAX. You will want a straightforward, simple pattern to absorb and retain what you learn in this class. Pattern fitting and alterations take lots of time, and you will likely have many tweaks to make.
My suggestion is to work with a darted woven dress pattern in any silhouette—sheath, shift, A-line, or fit and flare. This way you’re learning to fit in the Bust, Waist AND Hip. Stay away from anything with fussy details like pin-tucks or pleats. A fitted bodice with a gathered or pleated skirt is fine. There is also an excellent “fitting shell” pattern that is similar to making a fitted “sloper” or “toile”.
If you don’t wear dresses, choose a darted tunic, top, or skirt. If you have a full bust, think about whether you prefer a princess seam or a darted bodice. The full bust adjustment process is different for each.
In pattern world, “Women’s” patterns have been drafted for a more mature body with a fuller/lower bust and more ample hips. “Misses” patterns are drafted for a slender, ultra-fit body. If you’re a curvaceous size 18-30 (off the rack sizes), you’ll want to lean toward a “Women’s”. If you’re a size 4-18 (off the rack sizes) you can go with a “Misses” pattern. Below you’ll find links to the ideal types of patterns for this class in both categories.
Women’s Dresses
Women’s Tops
Misses Dresses
Misses Tops
You could choose a knit pattern if that’s the only thing you sew, but the fit is way easier on knits. You’ll get more out of fitting a woven fabric pattern because the fit is less forgiving. Once you learn how to fit woven patterns, knit patterns will be a breeze.
“But, why can’t I do an indie pattern?” I’m having you choose from the “big five” commercial pattern companies, because they have the most standard pattern layout, lingo, and provided finished garment measurements. Once you have done a commercial pattern, you can move on to the “indies” with ease. Additionally, pattern tissues are way easier to pin-fit than stiffer paper patterns. Pro-tip: Avert your eyes from the unappealing photo styling/illustrations of commercial patterns and just look at the line drawings. The silhouette lines give you the real picture and are often exactly the same as indy pattern styles when you get down to the bare bones.
MEASURE BUST, WAIST AND HIP FIRST!!
Your Pattern Size is totally different from your off-the-rack size. Your pattern size will be at least two sizes above your body measurements in most cases. You must measure yourself at the bust, waist and hip before you buy your pattern to be sure that it will work for your body measurements. Here’s how: https://www.simplicity.com/globalassets/catalogs/simplicity/complete-measurement-guide/simplicity-complete-measurement-guide.pdf
Pattern envelopes don’t always contain ALL the sizes, they often split them up in groups. Check the front of the pattern envelope to make sure your size is included in that envelope. For tops and dresses, buy the pattern size that fits you closest on the bust chart. The waist and hip are easier to alter. For skirts and pants, buy the pattern size that fits you closest at the waist.
Uh-oh! Do your measurements fall beyond the pattern sizes included on the size chart? It is ideal if all your measurements fall within the pattern size chart. The easiest thing to do is to go with another pattern that does, but we can make pattern adjustments up to 3” above/below the largest/smallest pattern size if needed, If you’re making your project for someone else, be sure to have their exact measurements with you. You’ll be lost in class without them.
I’m seriously SEW excited to see you in class!
Here’s your REQUIRED PRE-CLASS PREP CHECKLIST!
• We’ll be doing multiple fittings in both classes, so you need to wear the bra you’ll want to wear with your finished garment. Please wear close-fitting clothing like bike shorts/leggings/tights and a tight cami/tank/leotard.
• Read the pattern selection tips above.
• Take your measurements. Bust, Waist and Hip.
• Pick and purchase a pattern that includes your size/s.
• Email me the pattern you have chosen, and any questions you may have.
• You must cut your pattern pieces out before class. On the first page of your pattern instructions there will be a list of the pattern pieces needed for your “View”. DO NOT cut out any specific size, you’re simply rough-cutting the individual pattern pieces away from each other on the giant pattern tissue sheet. That way we’ll be able to hit the ground running in class!
Tip: instead of jamming everything back into the pattern envelope, pop everything into a large Ziploc bag.
CLASS I MATERIALS
NOTE: Don’t worry if you don’t have all these things. I have plenty to share.
• Your rough-cut pattern (see above)
• Plain tissue paper
• Paper scissors
• Scotch Tape
• 2” X 18” clear ruler
• Three colors of Paper Mate Flair regular point felt tip pens. (not the hard extra-fine tip)
• Pencil
• Hip Curve Ruler, French Curve and/or Vary Form Ruler (if you have them)
• We’ll be doing multiple fittings in both classes, so you need to wear the bra you’ll want to wear with your finished garment. Please wear close-fitting clothing like bike shorts/leggings/tights and a tight cami/tank/leotard.
Also Bring: A water bottle/cup with a lid. I have cold water and hot tea available in the studio. Bring a snack or two to keep from getting that low blood sugar zombie brain! There won’t be time or space to have an entire meal.
CLASS 2 MATERIALS
• All your pattern pieces and instructions
• Fabric--We’ll do a test fitting in fabric in Class 2. You can choose an inexpensive fabric like muslin or basic woven cotton, or even a thrifted flat bed sheet. Check out Austin Creative Reuse for thrifted yardage. Or you can buy fashion fabric suitable for your style. Just keep in mind that there will be additional tweaks to the pattern fit, and we’ll just be basting our main pattern pieces together. Don’t choose anything that frays badly, as we won’t have time for seam finishing. And maybe don’t dig into that irreplaceable cherished stash fabric just yet.
• Straight pins & pincushion
• Thread
• Your sewing machine (or use one of mine)
• We’ll be doing multiple fittings in both classes, so you need to wear the bra you’ll want to wear with your finished garment. Please wear close-fitting clothing like bike shorts/leggings/tights and a tight cami/tank/leotard.
Also Bring: A water bottle/cup with a lid. I have cold water and hot tea available in the studio. Bring a snack to keep from getting that low blood sugar zombie brain! There won’t be time or space to have an entire meal.
Just a lil' ol' reminder about my cancelation policy...
CANCELATION POLICY
Cancelations must be made a full 72 hours prior to your appointed class start time, so that I can try to re-fill your spot. If you break the cancelation agreement, you will forfeit your prepaid fee. If you cancel within the 72-hour window, your fee will transfer to your rescheduled class. There are no refunds, no exceptions.
There are no make-up classes. Students who miss the first class of a multi-class series may not continue the classes without scheduling a private lesson to get caught up. Private Lessons are $40/hr., pending availability.